Benghazi - First impression
Benghazi - First impression

It'll be nice when they finish it
It'll be nice when they finish it

Freedom Square
Freedom Square

Friday, December 22nd 2006 12:30 PM
Benghazi - Ryhmes with...

I think it's important, having visited a place, to record one's thoughts and observations whilst they're still fresh in your memory. So, I've just returned from my short visit into Benghazi and have headed directly for the computer room to do just this.

The shuttle bus ride was a bumpy 10-minute, round-the-harbour trip. When we arrived at our destination, many passengers looked out of the windows with very worried expressions, that might have simply said "Where the hell are they dropping us off?" As we disembarked, one or two passengers actually decided to stay on the bus and take the return journey immediately. Passengers who had got off the bus stood around rather bemusedly wondering where on earth they were supposed to go.

It's rather difficult to know what to say about Benghazi. One first thought was; it'll be nice when they've finished it. Another thought that came to me as I wandered the largely deserted streets was that here is an ideal opportunity for those wishing to partake in the on-board limerick competition - today I went to Benghazi.....

The reason for the quiet streets, of course, was because today is Friday, and in these parts, Friday is their Sunday. Most people managed to find the souks (market), which was semi-open, but, to be honest, when you've seen one market you've seen them all. Tripoli was far more impresive, and several people remarked how they would much rather have spent two days in Tripoli than spend any time at all here. Other than the occasional ethnic clothes stall, most stalls were selling jeans, t-shirts, sandals, household items, mobile phones, that sort of thing. Why would I want to buy a kettle in Benghazi? Actually, even on a quiet holy day, their market knocks the socks off the pitiful apology for a market that I see every Tuesday in Hawes, but after 5 or 10 minutes of walking the gauntlet, I'd seen enough!

The only other thing mentioned in the itinerary was an area known as Freedom Square, which many people seemed to be struggling to find. You'd bump into a group of Saga-louts on a corner and someone would say "have you found Freedom Square yet?". "Nope - you go that way, and I'll head on down that way, and I'll see you soon". Freedom Square has several mosques and the main Libyan Bank, but no-one seemed able to find it (I think I found it, though I can't be a hundred percent sure).

Benghazi reminded me of those clips you see on CNN of Baghdad. A few new, unfinished buildings, lots of old and semi-derelict buildings. Tons of rubbish in the streets and shop fronts that you're not sure whether they're open or not. Drivers seem to hurtle around like they're in dodgems and skwark their horns at the slightest thing. As I say, it was very quiet, and I wondered how different it might be on a busy mid-week day. Libyan men hang around street corners not really doing anything, some sit on ricketty chairs, looking like they're waiting for something to happen. They also seem to have a problem with 'hoodies'. Above all, though, they are extremely friendly; one man wanted to shake my hand and welcome me to his country, and wanted to know what my name was and where I'd come from (did I come from London? Manchester? Eeey-ar-land?).

Maybe in 10 or 20 years time things will be different. It's only relatively recently that Libya has welcomed visitors and it's only a matter of time, I would have thought, before it gets its act together. Libya isn't a poor country, they just don't seem to know how to spend their money - a few decent roads wouldn't go amiss. I'm struggling to find any redeeming features of Benghazi, but as I wandered the streets, I had to remind myself every once in a while that I was currently standing in Libya. You can't just compare it with London, Leeds, Manchester or Hawes and expect to come up with something sensible.

Interestingly enough, there weren't any pictures of Gadaffi about, although there were plenty of large posters in the same style, with a huge number 37 on them (The posters in Tripoli, featuring Mr Gorgeous himself also had large 37-s on them). Apparently 37 is the number of years that Colonel Gadaffi has been in power - five more years and he'll find the meaning of life, the universe and everything!

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