Chilling in Icouraci
Today, we arrived at our final Brazilian port, Icouraci.
For many passengers, Icouraci is a gateway to Belem, about an hour’s coach ride away; some were booked on the Belem Highlights tour or the Guama River tour, while others would opt for the Belem Transfer, an opportunity to reach Belem safely, and enjoy the city as an independent visitor. We did the Guama River excursion the first time we ever came here, and last year, we escorted the Transfer. On that occasion, when we arrived back at Icouraci, we vowed to not do a tour on our next visit, but to take a look at Icouraci because what we saw of it (and it was dark then), seemed quite lively and interesting.
Once again, access to land was via tender boat, which took about 15 minutes.
When we got there, we walked up the pier looking at the old, tatty boats, weaving our way through the local fishermen and traders, and instantly took a liking to the place. We’re not sure why, though; to say Icouraci is a bit grungy – a bit of a hole – is being rather kind to it. In its defense, it’s far more appealing, in all respects, than Santana, which we really don’t like at all (an alternative port that we’ve been to a few times at this point on the cruise), providing you turn a blind eye to the rubbish piled up on the streets, and the heavy police presence.
As we came to the end of the pier an d arrived at the road, we opted to turn left, and walk along the riverfront. Here, there was a beach of sorts, but not one that you could describe as inviting. The egrets seemed to like it here, however, and congregated in large numbers.
We followed a designated ‘tourist’ path as far as we could, and as we rejoined the main road, the sound of firecrackers (or, at least we hoped it was firecrackers) came from the road ahead. Coming from the other direction, were passengers who’d been turned back from going any further, and a police vehicle was slowly crawling along, effectively ‘herding’ any cruise ship passengers back towards the are near the pier. As well as the van, there were many police, both on foot and on motorcycles, in evidence. I can’t think that we posed any threat to their quiet lilttle community, but there you go… we were clearly welcoe, but only within very strict borders…
Back near the pier, we found a small bar that had cheap beer and free wi-fi, so we took advantage of that, updating and checking stuff while we can. We’ll be stuck with the limited availability back on the Magellan for the next three days, until we eventually get to the Caribbean, when free wi-fi should become a little more common.
As the afternoon drew on, and the light began to fade, so coachloads of passengers started returning from their tours, and the task of getting everybody back to the mothership via tenderboat began.
It was a strange stop, what with all the police presence and all, and as the Magellan raised its anchor, so the Brazilian leg of our journey came to an end. French Guyana and the Caribbean are up next…
